Output and draw testing that pinpoints whether it's your battery, alternator, or starter.
Schedule an Electrical System CheckJump-start the vehicle. If it runs fine after the jump but dies again within an hour of driving, the alternator isn’t recharging the battery — that’s an alternator issue. If it won’t crank at all even with a jump, the starter or a deeper electrical issue is likely involved. We test both.
13.8—14.5V at idle with accessories off. Under 13.5V means it’s not keeping the battery charged. Over 15V means it’s overcharging and damaging the battery. Both need attention.
One solid click usually means the solenoid is engaging but the starter motor isn’t turning — starter fault. Rapid clicking usually means the battery doesn’t have enough voltage to engage the solenoid properly — could be battery, terminals, or cables. We’ll trace which one.
Most last 80,000–150,000 miles or 7–10 years under normal conditions. High electrical loads (winches, upfitter lighting, heavy accessory use) can shorten that significantly.
Yes — gas and diesel, trucks and daily drivers. Hillsboro, Beaverton, and Portland metro.
Cold-cranking, state-of-health, and charging-system testing, including dual-battery diesel setups.
Corrosion removal and protection treatment to fix slow cranks and unreliable starts.
A full check of headlights, brake lights, and signals so you stay visible and ticket-free.
Electrical diagnostics that track down shorts, drains, and gremlins methodically.
Honest service, transparent pricing, and a 1-Year/12,000-Mile warranty on every job.